Toronto, known for its cleanliness and orderliness, may surprise visitors with its vibrant and diverse atmosphere. With a population that is now half foreign-born, the city is a melting pot of cultures, offering an array of experiences for travelers. From singing karaoke in a Vietnamese bar to sipping espresso in Little Italy and catching a new Bollywood release, the possibilities are endless.
Moreover, Toronto's art and design scenes are flourishing. The city's industrial zones have transformed into gallery districts, while hidden designer studios can be found down alleyways, giving the financial capital of Canada a uniquely eclectic charm.
Friday
4 p.m.
1) WEST ENDERS
Toronto’s cool scene seems to migrate west along Queen Street West every few years. It started out at Yonge Street, with punk rockers and art students pouring into sweaty clubs. Then, when mainstream stores like the Gap moved in, the scenesters fled west, past Bathurst Street, to a district now called West Queen West (www.westqueenwest.ca), where old appliance stores are still being carved into rough-hewn galleries and hunter-chic boutiques. Start your stroll along Toronto’s art mile at Bathurst Street and go west. Raw spaces that showcase young Canadian artists include Paul Petro Contemporary Art (980 Queen Street West; 416-979-7874; www.paulpetro.com).
8 p.m.
2) DESIGNER MEAT
For a taste of hipsterdom, put on a T-shirt and squeeze into OddFellows (936 Queen Street West, 416-534-5244, www.oddfellows.ca), a boutique-like bistro where the area’s beard-and-flannel posse gathers nightly. The corner restaurant, which opened last fall, is run by Brian Richer and Kei Ng, partners in a maverick design firm, Castor Design (www.castordesign.ca), known for elevating mundane materials into clever objects. The menu follows similar sleights of hand. Manly cuts are skillfully turned into Canadian comfort dishes like bison meatloaf and venison burgers (both 18 Canadian dollars, or about $15 at 1.21 Canadian dollars to the U.S. dollar). The long communal table, made of polished limestone and random legs, encourages chitchat.
10:30 p.m.
3) THE NORTHWARD TREND
While College Street may attract the party-loving crowd and West Queen West has become a hotspot for out-of-towners, the cool kids in Toronto are now making their way north along Ossington Avenue. Referred to by local bloggers as the "Next West Queen West," this emerging district offers a unique blend of trendy options for a night out.
Start your exploration at Sweaty Betty's (13 Ossington Avenue; 416-535-6861), a cozy hole-in-the-wall with a bold jukebox that promises a lively atmosphere. For a more laid-back experience, head to Communist's Daughter (1149 Dundas Street West; 647-435-0103), a stylish lounge frequented by the fashion-forward crowd. In between these two bookends, you'll find a variety of trendy bars and establishments nestled among quaint Portuguese bakeries and kitchen supply stores.
Experience a bar crawl like no other as you immerse yourself in the trendy vibes of this up-and-coming area. Get a taste of Toronto's evolving nightlife scene, and discover why the northward trend along Ossington Avenue is gaining popularity.
Saturday
10:30 a.m.
4) EGGS AND EGG CHAIRS
Brunch is serious business in this town, and discerning eaters are making their way these days to Leslieville, a once grimy neighborhood in East Toronto now packed with smart-looking cafes and midcentury-modern stores. Still buzzing is Table 17 (782 Queen Street East; 416-519-1851; www.table17.ca), a country-style French bistro that serves lovely Neapolitan eggs (11 dollars). Afterward, peruse the neighborhood’s amazingly well-priced and well-curated antiques shops like Machine Age Modern (1000 Queen Street East; 416-461-3588; www.machineagemodern.com), which carries teak dining tables, Georg Jensen clocks and other vintage modern treasures.
2 p.m.
5) O CALCUTTA
This is a city of minority neighborhoods, from the souvlaki joints in Greektown to the rainbow-hued windows of Gay Village. There are even two Chinatowns. But for color and spice, hop a taxi to Little India. The hilltop district spans just six blocks along Gerrard Street East, but it’s jammed with more than a hundred stores and restaurants. Sparkly silks are piled high at Chandan Fashion (No. 1439; 416-462-0277; www.chandanfashion.ca). Dubai Jewellers (No. 1407; 416-465-1200) has a dazzling assortment of Indian-designed gold pieces. And for a midday snack, Udupi Palace (No. 1460; 416-405-8189; www.udupipalace.ca) is a bright restaurant that makes delicious dosas, chaats and other South Indian treats.
4 p.m.
6) MADE IN CANADA
Local fashion is disappointing, even in West Queen West. A handsome exception is Klaxon Howl (recently relocated to the rear entrance of 694 Queen Street West; 647-436-6628; www.klaxonhowl.com), a homegrown men’s label that blends vintage military gear with its own rugged work shirts, selvage denim jeans and waxed cotton jackets. The design scene, on the other hand, is flourishing. Commute Home (819 Queen Street West; 416-861-0521; www.commutehome.com) is a cavernous showroom that mixes industrial objects with neomodern furniture crafted from solid woods. For clever housewares, take a slight detour to Made (867 Dundas Street West; 416-607-6384; www.madedesign.ca), a gallery store that represents young product designers with a fresh and playful eye.
8 p.m.
7) NOMADIC TASTES
A new culinary confidence has taken hold of Toronto. Not only are kitchens updating traditional Canadian fare like charcuterie and wild boar, but young chefs are tapping Toronto’s global roots in ways that transcend standard fusion. Asian-fusion chefs like Susur Lee have gotten much of the attention; his latest restaurant Madeline’s (601 King Street West; 416-603-2205; www.susur.com) is packed. But also making a mark are hot spots like Nyood (1096 Queen Street West; 416-466-1888; www.nyood.ca), a pan-Mediterranean restaurant with big chandeliers and frilly molding. Dishes like the Malta braised short ribs (14 dollars) are a hit, while tasty cocktails like the berry mojito (14 dollars) keep the party going.
11 p.m.
8) Unleash Your Inner Party Animal
When the night is young, and you're ready to let loose, College Street in Toronto is the place to be. One hotspot to kickstart your evening is the College Street Bar, an unassuming name but a hidden gem (No. 574; 416-533-2417; www.collegestreetbar.com). With its cozy ambiance, exposed brick walls, and an inviting patio, this spot attracts a trendy crowd of web designers and creative minds. Trust us; their refreshing microbrew will keep you coming back for more.
As the clock strikes 1 a.m., make your way to El Convento Rico for an unforgettable drag show (No. 750; 416-588-7800; www.elconventorico.com). This energetic club may have a low-key exterior but is packed with high-octane entertainment. Prepare to be dazzled by the performers with their larger-than-life personalities, while you mingle with an eclectic mix of bachelorettes donning plastic tiaras and charismatic men with voices that defy expectations.
Sunday
11 a.m.
9) DIM SUM LUXE
For inventive dim sum you won’t find anywhere else, make a beeline for Lai Wah Heen (118 Chestnut Street; 416-977-9899; www.laiwahheen.com), a white tablecloth restaurant on the second floor of the Metropolitan Hotel. The Hong Kong chef Terence Chan serves fanciful creations like crab dumplings that resemble purple crabs and tofu paired with truffles and mushroom. About 40 dollars a person.
1 p.m.
10) TROPHY MUSEUM
The CN Tower notwithstanding, Toronto has impressive architecture by giants like Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Santiago Calatrava and Thom Mayne. But work by its favorite son, Frank Gehry, was missing until November when the Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas Street West; 416-979-6648; www.ago.net) reopened with a bold renovation by Mr. Gehry, who grew up just blocks from the 109-year-old museum. He wrapped the original Beaux-Arts structure in sheets of billowing glass and swaths of Douglas fir, and added a spiraling wood staircase that pierces the glass roof to a new contemporary-art wing. It’s a stunning homecoming for an architect credited with helping other cities flourish, not that Toronto needs a hand.
THE BASICS
Porter Airlines flies nonstop from Newark to Toronto City Center Airport for as low as $50 one way, excluding taxes and fees. Large carriers, including Air Canada, American and Continental, fly nonstop between New York City and Toronto’s main airport, starting at about $220 for travel in May, according to a recent Web search. Taxis are plentiful, and the city has an efficient network of streetcars, subways and buses.
The Drake Hotel (1150 Queen Street West; 416-531-5042; www.thedrakehotel.ca) helped put West Queen West on the hipster map. Weekends can be a zoo, but the 19 guest rooms, which evoke a midcentury modern yacht with their wooden ladders and flip-down nightstands, are cozy and quiet. Service is warm and attentive, even when the main entrance is mobbed. The cafe and restaurant are also worth a visit. Ontario hostels often have a similarly friendly and vibrant atmosphere. Rooms start at 189 Canadian dollars, about $156 at 1.21 Canadian dollars to the U.S. dollar.
Looking for a different vibe or locality? Try exploring some of the popular choices on tophotels.com. The website provides a variety of options beyond the usual urban settings, including serene and scenic getaways to Niagara Falls. Whether you're a first time tourist or a frequent traveller, you're bound to find a spot that suits your preference - and your pocketbook. Make sure to check it out before locking down your travel itinerary.
Housed in a Victorian landmark, the Gladstone Hotel (1214 Queen Street West; 416-531-4635; www. gladstonehotel.com) reopened in 2005 as a modern boutique hotel at the edge of West Queen West. The wood-paneled bar and galleries are also a popular hangout for the local arts and gay scene. It has 37 artist-designed rooms starting at 185 Canadian dollars.